“Sword-fighters and slack-liners. Pigeons and bulldogs. Couples and loners. All sharing one lawn, under one smoggy sky.” This is a sentence I wrote describing Delores Park in San Francisco, California. If I were to re-construct this sentence describing Buen Retiro Park in Madrid, Spain it would read as the following: dormant nappers and people watchers. Small, content dogs and free-roaming turtles. Passionate lovers and happy anomics. All scattered between and beneath tall, planted greens.
How do we verbally capsulate the spirit of Madrid? Where is a location, place or activity that seems quintessential to Madrid? As I have spent mornings, afternoons and nights wandering the streets with the gats, I have found the heart of the city. With the cafes, streets and shopping functioning at veins, I have observed them all leading to, and pumping for, the heartbeat – Buen Retiro. Without choice, we all must eat, work, run errands and be productive, but those at Retiro park do so by choice, and this choice is influenced and continued by siesta culture—A people respecting the need for rest. Roaming the park, each time I am exposed to such variety of life it fills me with exuberance. One may walk for hours and days, each time falling witness to entirely new information.
For each person I see, I could formulate ideas about their day. Ideas such as where they came from, where they are going, why they are going, how the clothing choice might conflict with their activity, how their laugh might make someone’s day, how their expressions might provoke someone’s thoughts or how their demeanor might intrigue someone.
I am fascinated by each character I see, and they are all truly characters. All around, I see Spanish men sitting and staring. In Buen Retiro, the concrete, backless benches are fully stocked of well-dressed old men with lazily curious eyes. They seem to play musical chairs, as they cannot rest comfortably for long. For the men, with each bench switch comes a new set of entertainers; the view changes and so does the passerby. Although I could sit in one spot all day and always witness something new, I quickly pick up these gentleman’s drifting habits to capture the essence of the park.
Another scene I recognize to be Spanish is a woman reading to her children in Spanish, but speaking to her partner in Russian. The background of the Spanish boasts many ethnicities and heritages. There is significant value in relocating and claiming a new language for your family. Additionally, there is much pride to be had by the Spaniards. Rightfully so, as they have picked themselves up from the ground and pompously brushed off the dust. Towards the turn of the century, there has also been a turning of attitude by the Spaniards. With the recent change in government head and the death of Spain’s dictator Francisco Franco, came a change in law and behavior. The Spanish culture has only recently been loosened up to the age of modernity and the secularization of the Western world. Although the Spanish have only recently jumped into a public openness of affection, this display appears anywhere and everywhere, and I find it to be a sweet mark of Spanish culture.
Depending on where I sit, I see the different “types” of people. On almost any given patch of grass, large or small, you will encounter a romantically engaged couple. While Americans are interested in maintaining tactful appearance, the Spanish are confident in individuality and proud in their love. The lovers are preoccupied with acknowledging their own emotions and not the perceptions of strangers. It is not abnormal to see couples straddling each other or passionately involved underneath the revealing barrier of a blanket. With this openness, they have harnessed what so many work a lifetime to attain—cherishing the present.
Sadly, it is particularly difficult to eavesdrop in Retiro Park. Each group of people appears to be enjoying themselves in their group without a raised volume. I have noticed that Europeans engaged and content with conversation, do not often cause a ruckus or behave obnoxiously. I see this, again, rooted in a confident content with the self, as well as a vivid preciousness of the given moment. This contrasts starkly with the lack of need for personal space. Spaniards will get up in your business. My olfactory senses have gathered that there are about three different deodorant scents available in Spanish brands. Whether on the streets, cafes, shops or transportation, I have noted a few very specific deodorant scents wafting through the air coming from both men and women. The whiffs I get are not oil-based but have a touch of chemical perfume to their aroma. I assume these smells to be their cosmetic cleansers.
Most Spanish walkers in the Buen Retiro trail a dog behind them. I notice the majority of the dogs appear under ten pounds. I denote that this is due to small living spaces, as most housing in walking distance of the park are small apartments. Though the animals live in small spaces, they appear to be healthier and happier than American dogs. This is probably due to the walking lifestyle of the Spanish.
That being said, there are not many people at the Spanish park for exercise. A park in the United States may have a 75% attendance rate of fast-paced walkers sporting active wear. Whereas, nearly all in Buen Retiro casually stroll, carrying a shopping bag and wearing nice slacks or a dress.
In the United States, the parks are filled with birthday parties and picnics. In Spain, when I look and walk around, I see no Spaniards eating or dining. There are no public picnic tables, either. Consumption of food while on-the-go or multi-tasking is discouraged. When Spaniards are eating they are doing so to enjoy company and make connection. I cannot recall a single instance of seeing a Spaniard eating on-the-go, walking on the street, or waiting on the metro. Eating is an unhurried and community-focused activity. The way food is consumed, speaks greatly to Spanish culture on a macro level – it functions as an example of a slow and true enjoyment of life. Their eating practices perpetuate and preserve leisure routines and lifestyles. Moments are to be memories and life is to be cherished slowly. Travel writer, Marshall Krantz noted Americans complained that all Spaniards do is eat, but what they did not understood was that eating and drinking are secondary concerns; the main course at any Spanish meal is conversation (“Nocturnal Madrid,” 208). In order to make sense of certain parts of Spanish culture, I must compare it to American culture. Although I seek to progress into a more internationally-minded person, I cannot help but categorize Madrid in the American-based file cabinet of my mind.
In public, Spaniards appear to keep to themselves. I appreciate their contemplated manner of conduction and kempt temperament. With the exception of clubs, there is a private or exclusive nature to groups of persons or individuals of Spain. From a speculation standpoint, I respect the environment surrounding this attitude and mindset. Although I approach this outlook with acceptance, I acknowledge that with exclusivity comes a lack of potential connection with others. I view connection and love inextricably intertwined and pivotal to the human experience. I do not think the Spanish are cheating themselves out of anything essential, I only recognize that my American personality is outside of Spaniard norms.
To one who has not been to Spain, I would recommend an open mind and especially open eyes. Though keeping to themselves, the Spanish seem to be a very observant and curious people. There are many differences to celebrate in the Spanish culture from all other cultures. One has much to gain from an in-depth, or even surface level, observance of these differences.
How do we verbally capsulate the spirit of Madrid? Where is a location, place or activity that seems quintessential to Madrid? As I have spent mornings, afternoons and nights wandering the streets with the gats, I have found the heart of the city. With the cafes, streets and shopping functioning at veins, I have observed them all leading to, and pumping for, the heartbeat – Buen Retiro. Without choice, we all must eat, work, run errands and be productive, but those at Retiro park do so by choice, and this choice is influenced and continued by siesta culture—A people respecting the need for rest. Roaming the park, each time I am exposed to such variety of life it fills me with exuberance. One may walk for hours and days, each time falling witness to entirely new information.
For each person I see, I could formulate ideas about their day. Ideas such as where they came from, where they are going, why they are going, how the clothing choice might conflict with their activity, how their laugh might make someone’s day, how their expressions might provoke someone’s thoughts or how their demeanor might intrigue someone.
I am fascinated by each character I see, and they are all truly characters. All around, I see Spanish men sitting and staring. In Buen Retiro, the concrete, backless benches are fully stocked of well-dressed old men with lazily curious eyes. They seem to play musical chairs, as they cannot rest comfortably for long. For the men, with each bench switch comes a new set of entertainers; the view changes and so does the passerby. Although I could sit in one spot all day and always witness something new, I quickly pick up these gentleman’s drifting habits to capture the essence of the park.
Another scene I recognize to be Spanish is a woman reading to her children in Spanish, but speaking to her partner in Russian. The background of the Spanish boasts many ethnicities and heritages. There is significant value in relocating and claiming a new language for your family. Additionally, there is much pride to be had by the Spaniards. Rightfully so, as they have picked themselves up from the ground and pompously brushed off the dust. Towards the turn of the century, there has also been a turning of attitude by the Spaniards. With the recent change in government head and the death of Spain’s dictator Francisco Franco, came a change in law and behavior. The Spanish culture has only recently been loosened up to the age of modernity and the secularization of the Western world. Although the Spanish have only recently jumped into a public openness of affection, this display appears anywhere and everywhere, and I find it to be a sweet mark of Spanish culture.
Depending on where I sit, I see the different “types” of people. On almost any given patch of grass, large or small, you will encounter a romantically engaged couple. While Americans are interested in maintaining tactful appearance, the Spanish are confident in individuality and proud in their love. The lovers are preoccupied with acknowledging their own emotions and not the perceptions of strangers. It is not abnormal to see couples straddling each other or passionately involved underneath the revealing barrier of a blanket. With this openness, they have harnessed what so many work a lifetime to attain—cherishing the present.
Sadly, it is particularly difficult to eavesdrop in Retiro Park. Each group of people appears to be enjoying themselves in their group without a raised volume. I have noticed that Europeans engaged and content with conversation, do not often cause a ruckus or behave obnoxiously. I see this, again, rooted in a confident content with the self, as well as a vivid preciousness of the given moment. This contrasts starkly with the lack of need for personal space. Spaniards will get up in your business. My olfactory senses have gathered that there are about three different deodorant scents available in Spanish brands. Whether on the streets, cafes, shops or transportation, I have noted a few very specific deodorant scents wafting through the air coming from both men and women. The whiffs I get are not oil-based but have a touch of chemical perfume to their aroma. I assume these smells to be their cosmetic cleansers.
Most Spanish walkers in the Buen Retiro trail a dog behind them. I notice the majority of the dogs appear under ten pounds. I denote that this is due to small living spaces, as most housing in walking distance of the park are small apartments. Though the animals live in small spaces, they appear to be healthier and happier than American dogs. This is probably due to the walking lifestyle of the Spanish.
That being said, there are not many people at the Spanish park for exercise. A park in the United States may have a 75% attendance rate of fast-paced walkers sporting active wear. Whereas, nearly all in Buen Retiro casually stroll, carrying a shopping bag and wearing nice slacks or a dress.
In the United States, the parks are filled with birthday parties and picnics. In Spain, when I look and walk around, I see no Spaniards eating or dining. There are no public picnic tables, either. Consumption of food while on-the-go or multi-tasking is discouraged. When Spaniards are eating they are doing so to enjoy company and make connection. I cannot recall a single instance of seeing a Spaniard eating on-the-go, walking on the street, or waiting on the metro. Eating is an unhurried and community-focused activity. The way food is consumed, speaks greatly to Spanish culture on a macro level – it functions as an example of a slow and true enjoyment of life. Their eating practices perpetuate and preserve leisure routines and lifestyles. Moments are to be memories and life is to be cherished slowly. Travel writer, Marshall Krantz noted Americans complained that all Spaniards do is eat, but what they did not understood was that eating and drinking are secondary concerns; the main course at any Spanish meal is conversation (“Nocturnal Madrid,” 208). In order to make sense of certain parts of Spanish culture, I must compare it to American culture. Although I seek to progress into a more internationally-minded person, I cannot help but categorize Madrid in the American-based file cabinet of my mind.
In public, Spaniards appear to keep to themselves. I appreciate their contemplated manner of conduction and kempt temperament. With the exception of clubs, there is a private or exclusive nature to groups of persons or individuals of Spain. From a speculation standpoint, I respect the environment surrounding this attitude and mindset. Although I approach this outlook with acceptance, I acknowledge that with exclusivity comes a lack of potential connection with others. I view connection and love inextricably intertwined and pivotal to the human experience. I do not think the Spanish are cheating themselves out of anything essential, I only recognize that my American personality is outside of Spaniard norms.
To one who has not been to Spain, I would recommend an open mind and especially open eyes. Though keeping to themselves, the Spanish seem to be a very observant and curious people. There are many differences to celebrate in the Spanish culture from all other cultures. One has much to gain from an in-depth, or even surface level, observance of these differences.